A beginner’s guide to saddles: Choosing the Right One

The saddle is the most important thing to consider while going for your first horse ride. The right saddle is not only a matter of comfort, but also safety and balance, for the rider as well as the horse.

There are so many options available that it can get confusing to choose the one.The types of saddle parts, different saddle kind and which one is right for you and your horse.

I would make to the experience a little bit easier and perhaps more enjoyable by giving you an idea if what other key aspects of equestrianism are.

• One of the basic components that are indispensable for comfort and security while horse riding is the saddle.
• We have different types of saddles and there should be one that is for you.
• It is important to know how to fit a saddle on a horse because it is part of having an excellent riding experience.

Need-to-Know-Version of a Saddle Knowing the basic parts of a saddle is important for anybody who wants to ride horses.

You can use it to inform saddle purchase decisions (new or replacements) and discuss saddle features with others.

Inside the saddle framework

• Tree​: This is the basic structure of a saddle. It forms the saddle and spreads rider weight equally over horse back. This creates a more comfortable ride for the horse as well as the rider. The tree is commonly made of wood or synthetic materials.
• Gullet: A The gullet, or channel is the space on the inside of your saddle. This lies directly on top of the horse’s back: The gullet is essential for fit because it needs to be wide enough to make sure the saddle does not contact either side of the horses spine and allow airspace for any desired padding/wool.
• Panels: These are the two large pieces on either side of the gullet that will come directly into contact with the horses back (over a saddle pad). Foam or similar flocking material often packs the core of these panels to absorb shock as you bend and move. However, panels can often be adjusted to better conform to the horse.

On the exterior of the saddle

• Pommel: The raised section toward the front of the saddle. It helps to keep the horse’s back comfortable and provides support for the rider while in the saddle, closer to where the tree bars come together at the gullet.
• Cantle: The cantle is located on the back of the saddle Falling in a U shape above the seat, it provides back support to the rider under comfortable riding circumstances.
• Seat: The seat is the part of the saddle that the rider sits on. The cantle and the pommel are also placed there. Depending on the type and, therefore style of board there are different depth seat options: shollow – medium – medium deep – deep seat.
• Twist: The narrowest part of the saddle, located between the pommel and seat. It does effect the way that the saddle sits on you lap.
• Skirt: Made from light leather, the skirt is a flat panel that attaches to either side. Protects the stirrup bar and also protects your leg from coming into contact with the buckle of the stirrup.
• Flap: The wide piece that pends from the seat area. It fits beneath the skirt and goes around the girth including the billets.
• Knee roll: The knee roll is a pillow-like section at the very top of the flap. Helps dictate natural location of the riders knees Knee rolls are also optional, and not all saddles include them.
• The stirrup bar: A concealed metal bar that attaches the stirrup leathers to the saddle. The skirt shields it from leg contact.
• Stirrup leathers: These are leather straps or synthetic straps that connect the stirrups to the stirrup bar. The stirrup leather keeper which is right beside the fat passes through to keep it from flapping just hangs up all that looseness.
• The stirrup rider´s keeper: this part attaches the extra stirrup rider (after the adjustment) here and carries it safely. This is often as a leather loop or a slit in the flap.
• Stirrup: The part of the saddle that the rider puts their feet into. By holding the legs in the correct position, they can also support you when mounting and dismounting.

Under the saddle flap

• Girth: This is the strap that goes under your horse’s belly and holds the saddle on his or her back. The girth is attached by billets that are fastened beneath the body and can be adjusted for a perfect fit while the horse is ridden.
• Billets: A saddle usually has three billet straps underneath the flap. These are either used as billet guards or for attaching the girth strap, although two of them are typically used to position the girth.
• Knee block: Located at the back of the under flap, it offers more supportive. In most cases you can knock these blocks out straightforward and re-position them to suit your personal riding style.
• Thigh block: As knee block, the thigh block can be placed at the back of under flap for additional support It is also optional and adjustable according to rider comfort.

English Saddle

English -The English saddle is the preferred style for all English riding styles (hunter, jumper and dressage)and is one of the most widely used saddles in UK. It is lower profile and lighter than some other saddles. It feels like you are sitting on the horse – in other words, closer to the horse for greater control and enhanced communication. Western saddles have horns and English saddles do not.

English — There are also several sub-types of English saddles designed to cater to specific riding style needs:

• Close Contact or Jumping Saddle: This saddle is typical for hunter, jumper and other riding styles too. This saddle is a half-deep, has forward flaps allowing you to adjust your stirrup length and move the way you need.
• Dressage Saddle: The is a saddle for flatwork, with deep seat and long thin vertical flaps. Assist in keeping the rider with proper leg placement but allow horse to move freely.
• Jumping Saddle: Designed for jumping, this saddle features a flatter seat and forward-cut flaps that accommodate riders who ride with their stirrups short. Commonly has knee rolls to assist with stability.
• Racing Saddle: A small, lightweight saddle used for horse racing that is basically a flat bare place cushion with a deep seat. Jockeys usually crouch over the saddle to keep their balance but can also stand up in unison during races.
• Endurance Saddle: Ideal for longer rides, this saddle offers more (cushion) to make your saddle ride comfortable. Many come with a lighter design which is built with wider panels for better distribution of weight.
• Polo Saddle: This saddle is built with flat seat and long and straight flaps, only to be used for the sport of polo. Minimum padding ensures freedom of movement in the game-play.
• Showing Resume: Typically used in horse shows, this saddle is minimal padding and close fit to show the shape of the horses.

Western Saddle

Western Saddle— The Western saddle, often used with horses in the USA for ranch work is heavier than an English one. It has a taller cantle and a horn on the front which provides some handle to hold onto when you are riding for long periods. Designed for comfort and stability, even on rugged terrain or while roping cattle

There are few unique features of it:

• Design: The Western saddle has a bigger, cushioned seat. Horn: For tying up lines, or as a hand hold.
• Wider Flaps with Angled Stirrup: Providing more coverage, the flaps on Argentine saddles tend to be wider and the stirrups are commonly turned at an angle that helps secure one’s footing.
• Materials: Leather or nu-buck construction, which ensures the shoes are durable enough for trail use.

Western saddles come in different styles for use in various western riding sports and disciplines such as roping/reining, barrel racing, and trail riding.

Side Saddle

The side saddle is a unique kind of saddle that was originally made for women so that they could still ride even while wearing long skirts.

The picture shown is of the side saddle which permits a rider to sit with one leg on each side of an upright horse. While rare in the present day, it is still an element of some equestrian shows to account for its origins.

Key characteristics include:

• Darted versus dartless — side saddle: A saddle with a seat structured to promote side sitting Normally, it have a high pommel that helps protecting.
• Leg Position: The shape is designed to allow a better leg position for when wearing more traditional riding attire.
• The side saddle is less common today: Although the side saddle has fallen out of use with the rise of modern riding, it can still sometimes be found at shows to pay tribute to its heritage.

In keeping with this tradition the saddle type in most Kieffer models is one that reflects their traditional style but which has evolved for modern styles of riding.

Select the appropriate saddle type

The obvious first step when looking for a saddle is finding the right type for me and my horse. I should also be thinking about what keeps us safe and comfortable. General-purpose saddle. Overall, for beginners I recommend a general purpose saddle.

Such type keeps me practice in many styles of riding such as leaping, dressage and walking. I may need event specific saddles as I progress in skills and move into higher levels of competition.

Leather versus synthetic saddles

Also leather saddle or go synthetic; I am still deciding. There are a lot of different features that all work with my ride in a specific manner for each material.

Pros And Cons Of Leather Saddles

Pros:

• Durability: Leather material is strong and have a long lasting nature in comparison to synthetics.
• Price: in general a leather saddle is going to cost you more as it is a higher quality material.
• Aesthetics: In comparison cases, they tend to be sleeker and more professional-looking.
• Weight – Leather saddles are heavier and I try to keep weight as low as possible on my horse.
• Fit: With time, leather contours to the horse and rider, giving a more customized shape.
• Maintenance: Cleaning leather is more intricate than synthetic.

Cons:

• Value for money : In general synthetic saddles come at a lower cost, and this can be a saver in case I cannot afford to spend much into it.
• Adjust: While that is more than some materials, synthetic saddles do not wear as well over time as leather.
• Helpful Light: The less weight dragging on my horse the better.
• Less formal: Many times, these saddles seem more casual and suited for easier going rides.
• Easy to clean: Synthetic materials are easier to wash, making maintenance simple.
• Fit: The do not form to fit my horse in the same way leather does after years of sweat.

Another is whether I consider to purchase a new saddle or use one. These each having their own relative pros and cons.

Pros of a new saddle:

• Completely new : Never ridden saddle, fresh out of the box with no signs of wear or use, ensuring longevity.
• Custom options: May have better fitting opportunities for me and my horse.
• Learned: Other Body Parts — New saddles break-in period — I should know…

Pros of a used saddle:

• Money saver: It is cheaper to get an old saddle, which I’m going to need after all as a beginner.
• Pre-Broke in: Since the saddle has already been used, there is a chance it has already be softened up so you don’t have to break it in get Source.
• Saddle has not been used for a long time: as I have never seen it inter folds and package expected because of its age, in order to be able to start riding with it right away, there is need of few weeks consistent use.inspection needed: need to check very carefully for cracks and all other type damages since am buying an old saddle.

How to measure for a saddle

It is important to measure for a saddle so that it is the correct size for you. This includes measuring my seat size and my horse’s gullet size.

Reminder: The sense I am having is a retired English seat however this method may differ as in my area the predominant kind of saddle is English.

Measuring my seat size

Here are a few simple steps to find my saddle seat size.

• I sit comfortably in some sort of chair, my feet flat on the ground, my back resting against the backrest.
• To the rear of my knee, measure from here to my buttocks using a tape impose. For extra credit, ask a friend to help!

With the measurements done I can now look up my seat size on a saddle sizing chart. As for the saddle, this size will help me chose a comfortable to use while riding.

Here is how I put a saddle on a horse the proper way to keep me safe and my horse comfortable.

Grooming the Horse

The first one is a routine I have always done, grooming my horse before saddling. It helps ensure their fur lies flat and removes any dirt or things like that. I want to clean these out because it would irritate when I seat the saddle.

Placing the Saddle Pad

In the next step, I put the left-side saddle pad of the horse first centered on his withers. I pull it back slightly to make sure that it rests properly and comfortably with his hair laying neatly beneath. It is important that the pad is even, does not have any folds or rolls. I place the saddle pad with ties or fasteners toward the outside, so that connecting them is easier.

Stirrup and girth strap organizer

I always truck the stirrups and organize them before I lift the saddle. I fasten them down so they will not slap into one of us or become hopelessly entangled. I will also make sure the girth strap is either folded back over the seat or re-attached if I disconnected it– which is often so this final check was a big game changer for my routines.

Placing the Saddle

I remove the saddle from the left. I do have to raise it high enough to clear the horse and saddle pad. I set it oh so slightly forward and then pull it back, just as with the pad. I am very careful though, not to actually drop the saddle this way. The horse could get a sudden scare

Checking the Saddle Fit

At this stage, after placing the saddle I check both sides to ensure the pad is flat underneath and has no wrinkles. I adjust the stirrups (flip pin under to hang correctly) as I undo the hind leg restrains and he is free do diagnose himself. At this point, if the girth strap is still free/loose, I do it up on the right side of the saddle.

Securing the Girth Strap

I pull the girth strap hanging out of her on my end towards me from underneath the horse by access through to her left side. I slowly tighten it a bit by bit. It is important that I do this gently so that I don’t spook my horse. snug but not tight — i should be able to get my fingers between it I now also do up the saddle-under-strap ties or fasteners to the D-rings on the saddle.

Settling the Saddle

As you can see, the position of the girth is correct and if it fits me well, I should also check for any wrinkles in my skin under the knot. I walk to the other side, the horse on my right and move my eyes along their left side. I make a fist around the front leg at the pastern I stretch that leg towards me.

This movement balances out the skin and muscle, which prevents it from getting super tight in some areas! I RUN THIS PROCESS ON BOTH SIDES OF THE HORSE TO MAKE SURE EVERYTHING IS POSITIONED CORRECTLY.

These steps help me to accurately position the saddle on my horse which is important and leads to a better riding experience for myself and my horse.